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Caboose Hobbies Train Tips

Starting the Model Railroading Hobby Shorts in Steam Locomotives Cleaning and Lubrication
Optimizing Electrical
Pickup and & current flow
Weathering with Chalks Diesels: Diagnosing Shorts
and other electrical mechanical tidbits
Gears, Gearboxes and Drive Shafts Packing and Shipping delicate models Help! My Loco won't run
Basic Tools needed Diagnosing and Curing
Binds in Locomotives
Stick It Up Anywhere
Working with G Scale Couplers Working with Sub Roadbase Installation - Rail Joiner Screws
Care and Maintenance of Your Trains Alan Olsons article on weathering Byron Fenton on cleaning track
Airbrushing Basic Techniques Working With Colors Basics for DCC
Suggested list of books to help you start your hobby Handlaying Track & Turnouts
outline of hands on clinic
BRASS: Remotoring A Key C 29 by Steffen Rosmus
Derailments on your layout

COUPLERS by Byron Fenton

I use and highly recommend Kadee couplers. I experimented with Delton knuckle type
and found the Kadee's worked much better. I body mount all couplers when possible as
this makes for much improved operation, especially for switching and backing up. I recently
backed a 16 car train (about 22' long) up a 3.5% grade through switches and around curves.
You can't do that with talgo (truck mounted) couplers. If you want a smaller coupler you can
use the gauge 1 coupler of Kadee's and they will mate with the G coupler, however, they do not
uncouple with the magnet when mixed with the G coupler. The #789 coupler works for body mounting
on most cars. Kadee is coming out with a new coupler like the #789, but with an offset knuckle.
Contrary to Kadee's statement, "these couplers are for larger radius curves",
these couplers will work easily on 4' radius curves and on most cars will work down to 2'
radius. On the smaller radius their delayed uncoupling action may not work. The main criteria
on radius overhang from the truck pivot, the shorter this is the smaller radius you can use.


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Email:
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